If you look after your boots they will look after you. Neglect them and they can finish your career quite prematurely.

Basic Care

Skate Guards
Ensure that you get a good set of skate guards. These basically keep your blades free from damage whilst wearing them when not on the ice plus they will also protect your kit bag from being sliced to bits. Don't get the skate guards that come in two sections and are held together with a spring as these are primarily designed for figure skating boots which have a heel stop. The ideal pair to get are the ones that have teeth and a rubber heel grip which you place in between the teeth to fit your skates. They come in a variety of colours and are designed more for hockey skates that figure skates. You can go with the plush versions which are more novelty than anything else but remember your street cred will take a bashing as you get older.

Remember your skate guards will probably last longer than your skates and as such cutting the excess guard off just to make them more streamline for your skates will result in them needing to be replaced each time you get a larger size skate.

To ensure you guards fit your skates correctly, place the guard over the skates and then slide the rubber heel grip over the guard and push tight against the heel. You then need to ensure that the heel guard is stretched to the next tooth to ensure a tight fit. A loose fitting skate guard is likely to come off at the slightest scuff and result in you placing your naked blade down on the ground ruining the edges.

Putting skate guards on should always be done from the heel, pulling the guard forward over the nose of the boot. Taking them off should always be from the nose gripping tightly and pulling slightly forward and down at the same time.

Always ensure that you guards are free from any debris. A single piece of gravel within the skate guard can have a serious impact on the skate blade and something you will not be aware of until its too late.

Finally, if you are on a skating session and you come off the ice and put your guards on remember to (A) take them off before you next go on the ice, if you are just having a break (B) remove them from your skates when you get home to prevent the melted ice within the guard rusting your blades.

Skates and Boots
If you are lucky enough to have a set of boots that are all leather, then treat them with a good coating of dubbing every 4 weeks or so. This will prevent the boots from getting too wet and eventually rotting. Let the boots dry naturally and if too wet, stuff the toes with newspaper to absorb the dampness.

If your boots are of a mixture of fabric and plastic then always ensure that the boots are left to dry naturally.

Never stick your boots in the airing cupboard to dry as excessive heat can lead to distortion within the boot.

Finally use a bounce/tumble dryer sheet in each boot to maintain freshness and keeping them dry.

Blade Sharpness
Blades should always be kept to a fairly sharp standard. Blunt skates
result in more energy being exerted, poor turning and stopping. A skate blade should be sharpened after roughly 20 hours of ice time but in honesty this comes down to preference as a skate will normally burr over after 4 - 8 hours on the ice.

Never use naked skates on any hard surface as this will burr the edge of the skate even if they have just been sharpened.

My edges have burred do I need to get them sharpened?
In all honesty the answer is no but ensure that you have a skate sharpening kit to hand to remove the burr. These kits can be purchased from most ice hockey shops and normally consist of two stones and, in some instances, you may even find a screw driver and screws to maintain your helmet. The two stones in a set are normally light and dark. One is a sharpening stone to remove the burrs and the other is a polishing stone. Only use the stones on the sides of the blades and never use them on the face of the blade (i.e. the bit you skate on). Place the stones flat on the blade and run from heel to toe a couple of times applying even pressure along the stone.

Some manufacturers have a V shaped sharpening tool. Whilst these are OK they will eventually round or chamfer the edge of the blade making it thinner so if you can steer clear of these, then do.

'I have seen some de-burr someone skates with a 2 pence piece. Why do I have to pay large sums for this kit when a 2 pence piece will do?'
This method is used in extreme circumstances and should never be used as a standard way of sharpening your skates. This method is in the event your skate has come into contact with someone elses skates or the kick boards and a sharpening set is not available. Think of this method as an equivalent to a pair of tights for an emergency fan belt or an egg in a leaky radiator (i.e. it might get you out of a hole but it's only temporary.)

Laces
Its hard to imagine but your laces do eventually stretch in your boots.
Change them after 2 months of skating and ensure you get a similar pair
taking note of the length.

Laces should never be tied around the back of the boot and should never be of an excessive length.

If possible get waxed laces rather than just plain types of lace as the plain ones will absorb more water and stretch much quicker.